|
Lakpa-Ri Expedition (7043m)
The most climable 7,000m peak in the world
Lhakpa Ri is an ideal objective, remarkably positioned
just across the glacier from Everest. It shares the
historic route up the East Rongbuk Glacier and is
climbable by a relatively safe and straightforward
route. It is just over the milestone altitude of 7,000m,
making it higher than anything outside Asia and is
probably the most climbable 7,000m peak in the world.
 The mountain is one of several peaks that line the east
flank of the East Rongbuk Glacier. The summit is a
prominent three-sided pyramid which drops to the East
Rongbuk Glacier to the west, the Kharta Glacier to the
east and falls steeply to a tributary glacier of the
Kangshung to the south. The slopes from the Rongbuk an
Kharta Glaciers are relatively low angled and are linked
by the Lhakpa La pass (6,849m), which is just to the
north of Lhakpa Ri. It was from this pass, in 1922, that
Mallory and his team mates first saw the East Rongbuk
Glacier, an event well documented in mountaineering
annals.
Lhakpa Ri is a superb objective which should appeal to
climbers looking for a 7,000m summit in a famous
location. The visit to Lhasa, the overland journey
across the Tibetan Plateau, the trek in the footsteps of
Mallory and a climb with awesome views of Everest, are
the ingredients of a very special expedition. It will
also give a life-long impression of Tibet and its people
and an insight and deep respect for the achievements of
the early Everest pioneers.
The Expedition
Climbing Lhakpa Ri involves a similar itinerary to the
initial phase of an expedition to the North Ridge of
Everest. From Kathmandu, we fly to Lhasa and spend
several days in what was the "Forbidden City". Then
there is an incredible journey through Tibet, along the
Friendship Highway before turning south to the Rongbuk
Valley below Everest. We spend time acclimatising at
base camp before making the two-day hike to advance base
camp (ABC), at about 6,300m.
The ascent follows a shallow, snow-filled depression on
the southwest flank, ascending low-angled snow for 600m,
which steepens at mid-height to around 30-35°. After
gaining the crest of the ridge close to the Lhakpa La,
we turn south and follow the snow ridge to the summit.
After returning to base camp, we complete the remainder
of the Friendship Highway, driving along the northern
side of the Himalaya range, again with views of Everest,
Cho Oyu and numerous other peaks. The road eventually
descends to the Friendship Bridge, where we cross into
Nepal and continue to Kathmandu.
Glimpse of itineraries
Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu.
Day 02: At leisure in Kathmandu
Day 03: Fly to Lhasa
Day 04-05: At leisure in Lhasa
Day 06: Drive to Shigatse (6 hours)
Day 07: Drive to Xegar (8 hours)
Day 08: Acclimatization day
Day 09: Drive to Everest Base Camp (5,200m)
Day 10-13: Acclimatisation and local
exploration
Day 14: Trek to Interim Camp (5,800m)
Day 15: Trek to Advance Base Camp (6,400m)
Day 16-19: At leisure at Advance Base
Camp
Day 20: Climb Lhakpa Ri (7,045m)
Day 21: Spare day
Day 22: Return to Base Camp
Day 23: Drive to Nyalam.
Day 24: Drive to the Nepalese Border
and Kathmandu.
Day 25: At leisure in Kathmandu.
Day 26: Fly Kathmandu from your next
destination.
Other Trekking programmes in
Tibet
»
Mt Kailash Trek & Manasarovar (5630m)
- 25 Days Via Simikot
»
Simikot To
Kailash tour via Zhangmu -19 days
»
Kailash (Kang
Rinpoche, 6714m) Manasarovar Trekking
(Drive in Fly Out) -22 Days
»
Kailash (Kang
Rinpoche, 6714m) Manasarovar Trekking
(Fly in Fly Out) -17 Days
Visit also:
Pilgrimage tour to
Tibet |
Mountain Biking tour to Tibet |
Motor Biking tour to Tibet
|
